The atmosphere in Buenos Aires following Argentina’s win against England was electric, with locals embracing the joy of their team’s triumph. A waiter near Plaza de Mayo greeted us warmly, expressing admiration for Jude Bellingham. On our metro ride back from the fan zone, the excitement was palpable, highlighted by children in Lionel Messi jerseys singing, “Tell them you’re Scottish,” as they reveled in the moment of being back in a World Cup final.
As an English observer in a city adorned with sky blue and white, it felt like a unique privilege. Covering England’s rugby tour, I have experienced various iconic sporting events, but the jubilation in Buenos Aires after Argentina’s victory over England in the World Cup is unmatched.
From train drivers honking their horns in celebration to lively street dancers and elderly women waving flags from their balconies, the atmosphere surpassed even the most intense cricket rivalry between India and Pakistan. My Argentinian friend advised me to claim Scottish heritage for safety, though it turned out to be unnecessary.
For a moment, the outcome seemed uncertain. Picture a remote library in the quietest corner of Tierra del Fuego; it wouldn’t compare to the stunned silence that followed Anthony Gordon’s goal, putting England ahead 1-0. Decades after Diego Maradona’s infamous Hand of God, the Foot of Gordon seemed poised to become another legendary moment. For a brief period, it felt as though the air had been sucked out of Buenos Aires.
However, the narrative soon shifted. As celebrations intensified, the fan zone announcer’s remarks about the “El Que No Salta Es Un Inglés” and a burning St George flag showcased the fervor of the crowd. Ultimately, the defining realization was Argentina’s deep-rooted passion for football, evident through cars adorned with national flags and Messi’s image dominating billboards. While Mexico and Brazil may boast, Argentina’s devotion is in a league of its own.
As Argentina approaches the final match, anticipation is building. Four years ago, when Argentina last clinched the World Cup, around four million people flooded the streets of the capital. The congestion was so severe that an open-top bus parade was scrapped, leading the players to take to the skies in helicopters instead. When I inquired about the duration of the public celebrations, a local dryly responded, “Anyone who doesn’t jump is an Englishman”
Defeating England adds an extra layer of excitement to the victory. During our taxi ride from the airport, the driver playfully gestured the ‘Hand of God’ upon discovering our nationality, an amusing yet nerve-wracking moment as he sped down a dual carriageway at 90 mph.
After ensuring we paid an inflated fare due to a broken meter, the driver rolled down his window to shout, “Campeones, Argentina!” as he sped away. For many, besting Los Ingleses is a perennial delight.
Fortunately, some voices in Argentina reject the simplistic parallels between football and the 1982 Falklands conflict. War veterans have urged politicians not to exploit the semi-final victory to advocate for sovereignty over the South Atlantic islands, instead asking fans to remember the Argentinian soldiers who lost their lives during the conflict.
Still, the chant “El Que No Salta Es Un Inglés” – “Anyone who doesn’t jump is an Englishman” – remains a popular refrain among supporters. Interestingly, the recent passing of Bonnie Tyler also made waves here, as her hit song, “It’s a Heartache,” provides the melody for another beloved terrace anthem, the lyrics of which are best left to the imagination.
Now, the pressure is on Messi and his teammates to seal the deal. With a population of around 46 million, including 16 million in the wider Buenos Aires area, the celebrations at the Obelisk monument will be monumental if Argentina triumphs over Spain.
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