The journey to Estadio Ciudad de México, commonly known as the Azteca, vividly illustrated the contrasting realities of Mexico as the World Cup commenced on Thursday.
Fans who managed to secure tickets for the tournament’s opening match between Mexico and South Africa were directed towards the stadium by steel barriers, accompanied by enthusiastic volunteers. They celebrated by chanting, waving the national flag, and enjoying beers in the streets, with the lively atmosphere enhanced by traditional banda music performed by street entertainers.
In stark contrast, just beyond the barriers, protesters clashed with law enforcement, a frequent occurrence in recent weeks. However, the gathering on Thursday was smaller, thanks to a recent agreement between Mexico’s president, Claudia Sheinbaum, and the striking teachers who have been a significant part of these protests. Nevertheless, some demonstrators remained, throwing debris at the hundreds of riot police who were stationed behind their shields.
Discussions around the tournament have suggested that Mexico’s role feels secondary, as the majority of matches will be held in the United States, which will also host the final. Canada and Mexico have been offered only a nominal share, or as one fan succinctly put it, “The other times we had it,”—a mere sliver.
“It was for the people. Not so this time.” the fan explained, “I was surprised when we left where we’ve been based,”
The sentiment differs greatly from past tournaments in 1986 and 1970, where the brilliance of Diego Maradona and Pelé left an indelible mark on the collective memory of the nation. This World Cup, in contrast, has at times felt like a mere footnote for Mexico. Soaring ticket prices have added to this perception, with a beer at the Azteca costing around 280 pesos, approximately $17, while ticket prices reached into the thousands.
However, such concerns faded for the fortunate fans in the lead-up to the match. The stadium gates opened at 9 a.m., and eager supporters flooded through the turnstiles shortly thereafter. After extensive renovations, the Azteca, North America’s football cathedral, appeared resplendent on this occasion, its stark concrete façade transformed for the event.
“There were thousands of people waiting for us with words of encouragement along the route, when we were on the bus. It was beautiful, for me specifically because I grew up in this area. You’d see signs: ‘Mexico united,’ or ‘We love Mexico.’” midfielder Érik Lira remarked after the match, which concluded with a 2-0 win for Mexico. “It makes your feet shake a little bit [if you’re the opponent]. You get on the bus to come here, the people are in the streets already. If you’re a player, you look around at that and you say, ‘Oof.’ You [get to the stadium] and look up and up and up and then you’re getting confused making basic passes.”
Inside, the atmosphere was even more electrifying. Despite FIFA’s attempts to make the opening ceremony a grand and impersonal affair, the event resonated with the audience. The blend of colorful costumes, smoke, and the enormous, exploding “4-0, the game should’ve been,” sign above the pitch captivated the crowd. Organizers successfully integrated elements of Mexico’s rich and diverse culture into the presentation, which was well-received.
Mexican fans are known for their high expectations and sometimes harsh criticism of their national team. South Africa, regarded as one of the weaker teams in the tournament, posed little challenge to Mexico, who easily triumphed in a match that saw three red cards. The pressure from fans could have turned hostile had Mexico faltered, but they avoided that fate.
It took less than ten minutes for Julián Quiñones to capitalize on a defensive mistake, putting the hosts in the lead. The roar from the Azteca was deafening. On the sidelines, head coach Javier Aguirre celebrated, his fists raised, before being engulfed by his coaching staff and players. The atmosphere likely reminded Aguirre of his own experience as a midfield player during Mexico’s 1986 opener against Belgium, a match Mexico won 2-1.
The intimidating energy of the crowd proved overwhelming for South Africa. The Azteca is renowned as one of the most daunting stadiums globally, and Mexican supporters are particularly unforgiving towards rivals, especially teams like the United States or Argentina during the World Cup. South Africa experienced relentless jeers from the crowd, even during their warm-ups.
“The people had a right to boo.” Aguirre stated in the post-match press conference. “It makes your feet shake a little bit [if you’re the opponent]. You get on the bus to come here, the people are in the streets already. If you’re a player, you look around at that and you say, ‘Oof.’ You [get to the stadium] and look up and up and up and then you’re getting confused making basic passes.”
Aguirre’s team also faced some criticism. With a 2-0 lead, Mexican fans began to whistle at their own players for passing the ball around to waste time. While this tactic was understandable strategically, on a day like Thursday—where 80,824 jubilant fans celebrated not just Mexican football but the nation itself—such behavior was unwarranted. Nevertheless, Mexico continued to press, threatening South Africa’s goal until the final whistle.
“4-0, the game should’ve been,” Aguirre chuckled. “The people had a right to boo.”
In the end, the crowd erupted into song at the final whistle, treating the team and each other to a rousing rendition of Cielito Lindo. It was a heartwarming scene. As fans began to exit the vast portals of the Azteca and spill into the streets, the tensions between protesters and police had largely subsided. While those issues will inevitably return, as Mexico’s social and economic challenges cannot be solved through football, on this day, El Tri at least provided a momentary escape.
